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Thursday, May 01, 2025

Baku old city









 Baku is the bustling capital city of Azerbaijan. 


It has two faces: an ancient Silk Route city on a walled enclave with gates (Icerisheher) separating it from the modern, bustling, glass-paned, flame-towered, skyscraper city with architectural wonders like a rolled-in-carpet building, three flame towers symbolizing Azerbaijan's play with fire by tradition over the ages, and the existence of burning mountains and mud volcanoes by seeping hydrocarbon underground reserves.


 It has green parks dotting the modern cityscape, contributing fresh air and oxygen to the bustling city. 

It has a 16km promenade on the banks of the Caspian Sea, a misnomer as it's a saltwater lake bordering the country. 


This huge park is the Bulvar. 


Unlike the new city, Old Baku is filled with granite or brick-layered buildings, winding, cobwebbed, cobbled stone narrow streets with winding steps into open terraces. 


Built from 7 th century to 12 th century  Old Baku leads on to Nizami Street, the shopper's delight, where old and new merge to create a traffic-free expanse of designed street floors, public singers in squares, apostles, and other statues, modern art pieces, fountains, and thousands of shops and restaurants. 

The old city's landmarks are the Shirvansh palace, a two-storeyed simple structure ( hardly a palace to Indians who had seen resplendent exotic palaces in thier land ,this would account to a royal cooks quarters )  of those who ruled and created a city of their victory trophies, swords, and other items. 


The UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Maiden's Tower, a cylindrical 8-storey tower constructed in the 12th century. 

The Jumma Mosque, 

Museum of Miniature Books, 

old caravanserais functioning as restaurants and bars, 

hammams or public bath houses too. 

Old Baku is not a historical ghost town of abandoned towns. but a pulsating living city with many living in it still .

Amongst caravansaries built in silk route times the preserved ones are Multani and Bukharra 

There are more than 3000 residents staying in old Baku and thier houses are i narrow winding streets some with steep steps ,plenty of shops sell antiques of brass copper pottery Russian dolls carpets paintings 

We can see old men intent on their games of dice .

The old Baku has unlimited potential for exploration on foot into narrow streets lined with slices of history reminicing us of the tired travellers in silk route bartering thier treasures of tea or spices for carpets or wool ,the scent of distant lands ,the stubble of beards or the glimpses of slit eyes in covered veils the distant cry of an infant or the click of metal shoes of an old resident meandering in the streets meld old into now in this live stage .

Its advised by a seasoned traveller to go to old Baku in the dawn and early morning far from the maddening crowd of tourists and the hot sun in summer .

In the throes of the cold of dawn when the city comes alive the foggy glimpses of sandstone balconies and towers is like never seen any other time ,far from the tourist circuits one can wander into winding streets to catch surprises at narrow corners .

To sit in a caravinesseri for an Azerbaijani breakfast of sweetened freshly baked vread dipped into fragrant strawberry jam or fresh hotel or bite into a succulent cheese or bite into a soft lamb in an oily sauce would end the Baku by foot .

Harimohan













Wednesday, February 12, 2025

Dr .K.M.Cherian

 











Our heartfelt tributes to famous cardiothoracic surgeon KM.Cherian .

To us he was literally God .


In Nineties we wanted to get the Ventricular Septal defect or hole in heart of our mentally challenged elder daughter closed as its time for a natural closure was over and with time she would develop irreversible issues .


This was just one of Shilpas issues though she was a beautiful child almost an angel but one who did not talk or could walk only with support at 8 years .


We had no doubts regarding the surgery needed would be done at any cost ,as we did not want her to suffer at any cost by something we could find a solution .


An open heart surgery in a child wasnt easy and costs too were a bit high for us young doctors .


We were in CMC Vellore for her training and we showed her to cardiothoracic Dept there .


CMC was well known to have the best skills in south India then .

The surgeon examined her and asked us why we wanted surgery for her ?

we told obviously if we dont correct her defect she will go into cardiac failure and suffer a lot .


Then he asked but is it cost effective ? 


we did not grasp it till he repeated well spending around 1.5 lakhs ( those times a big amount ) for a special child what are we going to get back !!!!


We said She is our child whether  normal or special and we wanted best for her 

it did not depend on what we get back !

even if a normal child are you sure we will get back something ,

Do parents do whats needed for children knowing this !


He said I know you are emotional but in CMC our efforts need to focus more on normal children with a productive future instead of a special child who would be of no use to society .


The point he was making was why do something to save such a child !


It angered and saddened us that our own profession had such soul less men amongst them .


We just told then we will find out who will do and walked out literally in tears .


we had no idea where to go .


Kerala those days had only Chitra Tirunal but we both studied in Madras and we had heard of Dr Cherian in Vijaya Hospital then .

So we both went to meet him ,

I remember seeing  Dr Cherian masked in his room as he had just come from OT .


He was angry at an attender for leaving his fridge door open .

we entered a bit nervous and told him all details including what we went through in CMCH .

He made no comments , but just said I will do it  ,come in ten days planning for the surgery .


We told him

Sir we cannot afford very high costs in a private hospital as we just started our career .


He did not say anything again just told us

 Hari will talk to you .


He called Dr Haridas then his cardiologist later Dr Haridas would become HOD in Amritha hospital establishing a state of art cardiology center in kerala .


Haridas Sir would become close to us years ahead and visited Shilpa center after she left us too .


He too would pass away unfortunately .


That day an young Haridas sir took us to the ward showed us the room she would have

 ( we wanted the best for her ) told us they would help us out in all ways and Dr Cherian would do his best .


We admitted Shilpa .


with great care Cherian sir operated on her ,for him closure of a VSD was no big feat but routine but he knew Shilpa could not register her anxiety or pain like other children and she had chances of infection etc .


Premila was allowed to be with Shilpa from post op ICU as he knew this child needed her mother .


Usually this is never done as infection chances increases with more people around .


He would during rounds take great care of her .

Two days post op a nurse who was giving steam inhalation spilled hot water on Shilpa  by accident ( those days this was method used as no nebulisers ) 

The nurse pleaded to premila not to tell chief as she may lose her job

premila took up the blame .


Cherian sir was quite angry he just said no excuses for not being careful as we dont want any infections for her and a scald was potential source of infection .


luckily she improved .


The great man took no fee and gave us maximum discount .


He did all this taking great care of our baby healed her without a word or blaming anyone .


My eyes are filled with tears as I write this after three decades today .

We never met him later

Shilpa too left us 

but the great human being was God himself who came to heal her 

made her heart as good as new .


we too feel good we could do our best for Shilpa  not based on cost effectiveness.


May your great soul rest in peace Sir .


Iam sure thousands are praying same for you today .




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