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Sunday, February 03, 2019

Nuwara Eliya the Munnar of Sri Lanka







As scheduled we left after breakfast to Nuwara Eliya The hill station of Sri Lanka from Kandy the famous lake city of the tooth relic
Nuwara eliya was a hill station made by the British  around 2500 mts ASL .
On the  way we  drove into Peradiniya university as suggested by my classmate now in the US but who was 10 years in Kandy and belongs to Sri Lanka .

We stopped in 3 more places
A tea factory 
Chinmaya missions Hanuman temple in Romgoto
A lovely waterfall

The tea factory was like the one in Munnar albeit much smaller .
We were taken around the process of making tea sorting it marketing it etc
Sri lankan tea is known for its quality but then living in Cochin and travelling to Munnar ,Darjeeling ,Ooty ,mananthavadi Tea was old hat to me
We did sip a cuppa and bought a mandatory packet .










The Hanuman temple was on a lovely hill a few steps climb and we were there.
The idol was huge .

The waterfall needed a steep descent into a hotel whose elevator took us down near the waterfall .
Luckily the hotel shuttle spared us the ascent and descent .

It was hot all along till we checked into Nature first our hotel for the day a long 15 km from Nuwara Eliya but place was on a nice perch and we got a top floor room almost a penthouse with a wide balcony .
After an hour we proceeded into nuwara eliyathen on to Sita eliya .
This was where Sita lord Rams consort was kept by Ravanan after his abduction of Sita devi
It was supposed to be a rock shelf with a cave a flowing stream and wooded forest called Asokha vanam .
She was supposed to have been guarded by Ravanas female demons as she refused to fall to his whims .
It was here Hanuman came to her with a message from Ram and there is an impression of a huge foot on a rock called Hanumans foot .
The place looked right for the epic legend as  believed by millions of Hindus .
There were lot of monkeys too .















I came to know from a priest that the temple was just 40 years old but was built on the site where an older one existed for years .

We returned into Nuwara Eliya which like all British built hill stations had quaint English cottages ,narrow mountain roads ,green vegetables sold on the roadside,resorts,parks a huge lake the  Gregory lake with speeding motor boats and walkways .

We had some food from a hotel and it was regretful .

By evening the cool breeze brought chill in the air and as mists came down we drove down to our hotel for a fitfull sleep .
the next day we left after one of the best breakfasts we had in Sri Lanka .

Tooth relic temple Kandy




Sri Dalada Maligawa is the name of the holy temple in Kandy ,Sri Lanka which preserves the tooth of Lord Buddha himself .
A well known pilgrim center for Buddhists from all over the world the temple has a fascinating story of adventure ,romance,war,death and life,serenity,peace and sublime spirituality behind it .
We consider it as a grace of God that we could visit this most beautiful temple which had an unmistakable aura of positivity and peace around it .
When Lord Buddha attained nirvana after his cremation in kusinara in India his remains were kept by many regional kings and Arahats
His left canine tooth was taken by an Arahat who later gave it to king Brahmadatte who preserved it as a precious family heirloom for around 800 years in the city of Dantapuri .
By this time it had changed hands and had come to king Guhaseeva of kalinga kingdom .
When one king Pandu heard that Guhaseeva was worshipping a tooth as a relic he ridiculed Guhaseeva asked him to produce the relic which Guhasiva did to show him its miracle
When Pandu listening to jain and Hindu monks tried tried to destroy the tooth it flew away as a bright star on which the king realized its sacredness and turned into a Buddhist .
Hearing this king ksheeradhara came to was with Guhasiva and defeated him .
Before the enemy attacked the city king Guhasiva asked his daughter Hemamala and son in law prince Dantha to carry the relic to Lankadweepa where his friend king kithshirimevan son of king Mahasena ruled .










Dhantha and Hema mala carried the relic .
In certain areas Hema mala had to hide the relic in her hair .
Once it gets stolen by a cobra and its taken to nagaloga where the naga princess and prince worship it .
Somehow they are able to get back the tooth which they take by land and sea to lankadweepa anf from port go to lankapuri .they are told to go to Anuradhapura where the kong resided.
They hand over the tooth to the king finally a job well done
Finally after many travails they reach Lanka and are told to go to Anuradhapura to meet the king .
They do that and finally the relic is handed over to king who becomes the first in a line of kings who would defend the relic with life and more .
The kings of Sri lanka associated longevity of thier empire by preserving the relic hence built temples close to their palaces to house it .
During times of war the relic was hidden in homes ,several times templeneeded to be rebuilt .
Finally its housed in the Dalada Maligawa of Kandy which incidentally had the last kingdom of Sri Lanka .
Even in the modern times there were two attempts to destroy it in 1989 and later by LTTE in 1998 .
So today morning at 9am we reached to outer perimeter of the Dala maligawa .









We saw the hexagonal pathirippuwa or viewing balcony when the relic is shown to people .pathirippu is Tamil for to see and the place was used to viewing or paathirippu .
The temple has a moat in front after crossing several qauint buildings we reached a double storeyed neat building .
We climbed up to the main hall .
On one side people were walking upto the altar which was closed .many offered flowers some had a round parcel on their heads .
I asked one pilgrim what it signified and was told the parcel had all needed for life and this was offered to the lord as offering .
We were informed that the inner temple would happen in an hour and we could join a line and wait .
We did so 







Premila sat in a corner and meditated while i went on clicking photos .
The hall was neat with wooden floors .
After an hour we crawled in the line to see the gold vessel holding the relic .
We returned via the museum and saw kandy palace and went back with a delight of having had a profound spiritual experience

Monday, January 14, 2019

Raw agent

Photo story ...

It was snowing
The chill stole up my windcheater and into my bones gnawing it like with a chain saw .
A RAW agent in New York cannot use cold as an excuse .
Extremes of climate was part of an agents life
Drawing a loaded weapon aiming it and hitting targets cannot point at frozen fingers
Excuses and apologies dont exist in the vocabulary of the profession
The targets dont understand them
They know only one chance the thin thread between life and death
I hardly fit the role which was exactly what was needed
I looked every inch an academic Indian who had come to 53 avenue 24 th street for another dreary meet .
The ubiquitous Indians seen on the Manhattan thoroughfares .
They were there all the time
With families towing grinning at selfies in Times square
Gingerly holding a Manhattan cocktail and wincing at its bitter Bourbon in the crowded bar
Bouncers watched somberly as scantily clad girls moved around hunting for prey
The smoke inside the bar was more than the flakes outside.
As its warmth descended down into my bowels a glow suffused on my homely face
Anything to beat the cold
The wait in the Brooklyn bridge for hours was a torture till i saw the short Japanese walk briskly giving me a camera to shoot his picture like any tourist would !
Only difference after that he just walked away while the camera found its way into my windcheater and now to give it to the lanky huge Russian bartender was my job .

The cocktail was half empty when he sidled up to me with arched eyebrows
Idrastinikov
He grunted wheezily while i extricated the chip in the camera and slid it near my glass
With the deft of a magician he took it and left the scene
I looked around

The crowd was behaving no different
An indistinct Indian nursing a cocktail in a Manhattan bar made no news which is precisely what I wanted
Merging into crowds was our USB drilled into us during our years in training !
One minute we are there and then a crack of a shot and we disappear like Houdini .

The satellite phone I had was tiny the latest
i took it as it trilled
And just said two words
Cocktail good
Thousands of kilometers away sitting in an old Delhi office an obese officer tapped into his laptop an indistinct coded message
Mission accomplished

Buying a camel

Since wife has gone to Rajasthan with her sister when she asked me what i want i told her to buy me a camel .

.its ideal for cochin traffic

With present roads it will be at home similar to desert dunes full of ups downs
I can ride it in any hartal
If errant drivers graze it they will get a good kick and i will have no issues .
I will have no parking problems as all i need is a rope
No insurance issues no depreciation
Can export it to Saudia after few years as pure kochi breed to some sheikh

During hot days all i need is a straw into the camels hump which is like a water tank maybe can add some ice cubes too
If i fit a bag to collect dung i can sell it as fertlisers
I may need some hay
mebbe it will get used to mallu parottas
It wud never get punctured

The only service it requires is a kick in the rump

Swamiye saranam Ayyappa

Four decades back on this day I was trudging on the slanting hills of Sabarimala with thousands of black clad pilgrims .
It was evening
We had reached the previous day .
I was in a troupe of more than 50 pilgrims from Madras led by a venerant Guruswami .
For 40 days I had woken up at pre dawn , had my bath twice a day ,avoided non veg food visited temples .
Then I had just completed my second MBBS and just got into my third year MBBS where we enter hospitals ,and start our clinical foray when we sort of experience being virgin doctors.
On January first I had gone to Royapettah hospital straight from a bajan mandal in Perambur ,where the whole night of 31 dec I had been with my Sabarimala group fervently singing bhajans .

This was a vow I had made to Lord Ayappa that I would climb the hills if I get medical admission
For someone born in the so called FORWARD caste ,who are treated as backward but , by a strange stupid system , and ,a fatherless boy who could ill afford capitation to finance a medical seat in a private medical college ,though they were far and few those days it was a literal miracle I got a seat by merit .

Yes that year, Emergency was declared in Tamilnadu ,and Karunanidhis DMK was dismissed .
As medical admissions were fully corrupt it was decided that year the criterion would only be merit ,and for someone who got university first in physics ,in the 3 subjects physics, chemistry ,and biology I  had 84 % aggregrate percentage more than the 80 kept as cut off that year .

So it was a miracle I still believe Lord Ayyappa made me a doctor .

My first trip was a long one lasting 2 weeks  ,
We went rough by train ,public buses ,to many temples in Tamilnadu reaching Trivandrum ,later Chengannur, and in Erumeli ,as first time pilgrims we all adorned ourselves in colourful ribbons baloons and danced our way into Vavars mosque .
It was the practice to pray to Vavar the muslim bosom friend of Lord Ayyappa before we trekked the hills ,later after a nice bath we started trekking the hills by the long route .
Later I had gone to Sabarimala four more times by the shorter route from Pamba river .

It would take hard climbing for almost 3 days barefoot when we stayed on the banks of flowing Azhudha river on first day ,and climbed the very tough Karimala on second day .
We climbed down into Pamba ,stayed there for 2 days ,later we climbed up the steep Neeli mala and reached sannidhaanam .

The climbing of the 18 steps was emotional as we were literally supported by police men on sides .

The crowds were mamoth ,but everything was in order as the policemen too were devout ,helpful , and everyone were Ayappas , women of prescribed age ,men ,children ,all
no caste , no religion ,no rich ,no poor ,no state ,no nation ,it was humans meeting the divine ,in the greatest pilgrimage in the world .

And today to hear insults heaped on this temple of discrimination !!
by idiots who know nothing of its sanctity.
 who have no belief in its deity ,who by force and convoluted mindset are bent on destroying such a sacred place ,by bringing in issues ,which the same holier than thou wouldnt dare mentioning in other religions 😡
As a sincere devotee like thousands of men and women,yes ,
 women like my daughter and mother both I had taken to sabarimala , later women like my wife ,women in my family, my friends ,thousands of them sincere,  faithful ,devotees of Lord Ayyappa , not only feel not discriminated ,but are willing to wait for the time to go .

Are we Sanghis ,RSS ,saffron terrorists ?
 which is the label given to all sabarimala pilgrims by the cunning devils .

Its our faith .
Its our belief.
Who the hell are you to interfere ?
What right has the supreme court to insult us ?
Who is that man sitting as keralas honcho , to turn his police force on pilgrims hosing water , hitting them with lathis ,tear gassing the pilgrims ,arresting them as common criminals !😡😡😡😡

What kind of a state is this which discriminates tortures one community to carry on its agenda while looting temples ?

Its ministers ridicule our thantri ,or chief priest calls him an employer ,who should be kicked out ,this when they cosy up on terror accused mullahs ,and rapist Bishops !!
The hurt on sabarimala pilgrims is deep and permanent .

It has turned a silent ,soft ,civil ,law abiding spiritual group of humans , into angry men and women.

Angry and frustrated , that this could happen in the country they call it their own.
This is true intolerance ,Nasserudhin shah ,Aamir khan ,we feel we want to quit this state ,this nation , no not because we dont love it like you , not because we think as Hindus ,but because we have monsters bent on hurting us only ,because we dont react ,because we need to be exploited for those parasites to live here .

Today at 6.30 pm just like that day 4 decades back ,thousands would be sitting on the cold mountain waiting for the call from lord Ayappa ,praying to him as we had for aeons ,that he will destroy the evil and help us in doing that .

Swamiye saranam Ayappa
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