Koothaatukulam Mahadeva Temple

Aum Trayambakam Yajamahaey

Sugandhim pusthivardanam Urvaaru kaamiva

Bandanaath mrutyor Muksheeya

Mamamritaat

Meaning

“We worship the fragrant Lord shiva who has three eyes who cultivates all beings

May he free me from death, for immortality as even a cucumber is separated from its bond with the vine “

Sree Mahadeva Shethram Koothattukulam : June 6th 2024

When I heard about a dilapidated temple with an antiquity of 1000 years in Koothattukulam Ernakulam district I wanted to go there once.

Today was the blessed day I could pray to

Sri Mahadevan the pradishta or idol of this ancient temple.

The temple is close to Koothattukulam town on road to Thodupuzha

I had an opportunity to contact Shri Rajesh who has been in forefront of renovating this crumbling edifice through Shivaswam an organisation committed to same for many years .

According to him the family who owned temple was not keen in its upkeep for causes unknown ( their version unknown ) and hence a legal tussle was on till High court decided to hand over rights of administering temple to Travancore Devasom under state Govt in 2017 .

Dewasom take over had given hope of a quick renovation .

but plenty of official obstacles, permissions and inspections were needed .

The archaeological importance as a heritage temple needed careful assessment and scientific restoration .

This could be reason for delay initially

Strangely the temple sticks to all its pujas meticulously and there is no paucity of devotees and income from it

I could talk to the main priest Sri Shinu Chandrakanth and seeing him do puja we could realise the lord was doted on by a loving priest.

The Pushpanjali I offered was done and I was able to experience the sanctified feel.

Thirumeni (priest) had told me that all rituals, festivals and pujas are done well and people flock here in spite of its upkeep.

He mentioned how the layout of the whole temple was a sloping descent where even from outside the idol can be seen clearly.

The Balikal in front too was at a low level

There was a palpable serenity and positivity felt in the temple.

One unique fact on the main idol is that the

Swayambhu idol (self-formed) is not Mahadevan or lord Shiva alone but with his family his wife Sri Parvathi Lord Ganesha and Lord Muruga his children something very unique, not seen in any shiva temples

Saastha is behind main idol naturally being his son too

Near Saastha is Bhagavathy

Mahavishnu too is near sanctum

An ancient Koovala tree grows from inner precinct too

The Chuttambalam in inner precinct too is in disrepair but beautiful to look at

Another fact was the main idol is facing east unlike normally west facing idols

The sanctum sanctorum is a round structure with a conical copper plated roof.

Though its outer wall is repainted with whitewash one can see remnants of mural arts, there are yellow and orange portions of paint seen made of vegetable dyes

Remember the original temple was built in 12 the century Ad almost 1000 years back and new present form of temple built around 1750 by Marthanda Varma

The Padipura or outer mandap just before entering the inner portion has stone pillars with sculptures a rarity in central Kerala temples.

It has two Dwarapalakas on both sides

The gable has detailed carvings

Ramayana has been depicted fully in the Balikaura roof timber scaffold

The roof of Balikapura before entering the inner sanctum made of timber in traditional kerala design. has Ramayana story in wooden carvings and Dasavathara .

The roof has holes where portions have spilled off.

The outer precinct the granite slabs as footstones were strewn irregularly

The front gopura too looks like its in verge of falling to pieces

There is a prathista for Naga devathas or serpent Goddesses and Kokkarany Bhagavathy outside

The Balikal has stone writings on the temple being rebuilt after Marthanda varma secured temple is a fine example of vaasthu shaasthra

As one comes out one sees a long platform which is said the have been a remnant to a double storeyed structure used as Ootupura or dining hall and with lamps numbering up to 100000

It was supposed to have been destroyed by the then owners

The temple is in urgent need of shoring it up as it can crumble in places if not attended to.

A pulluva paatu was sung in temple by a very talented lady on my request as an offering to God

I took more pictures and videos

History from 1750

Marthanda varma the ruler of Travancore in 17 century had invaded central kerala, the Thekkumkurs drove away the Vadakkumkurs and they sought refuge in Zamorin of Kozhikode,

It was Ramayan dhalava the commanding officer of Marthanda Varma who led the battle

Marthanda varma gave large amounts of property to both Vaikom and Etumanoor temples and rebuilt Koothattukulam temple using the best thachu artistes and included stone sculptures, murals and wood carvings .

These are more common in temples in Travancore and there is a link to the Adikesava temple in Thiruvatta, the original moolasthana of Padmanabha swamy temple.

Many carvings here are similar to those seen in the Adikesava temple.

Ramayyan dhalava also oversaw the rebuilding of this temple with artistes brought from Travancore, these records are said to be available in the kowdiar palace in Trivandrum.

After temple was rebuilt Ramayan Dhalava entrusted it to Sujheendra nambis, after this Chenaas Namboothiri, Vengasseri moothathu ,Ambakkaatu Panniker were made ooralams or authorities ,

Details on this are still said to be available in Trivandrum central vernacular records

As priest a potti from Attiman family was brought from Mavelikara

With time chenaas Namboothiri and Vengasseri moothathu families lost their hold and it was only with Ambakatu panikcer in 1950 they too left and the temple was left to hands of the Attiman family.

Marthanda varma also donated lot of lands which in Kottayam and Ernakulam district, unfortunately most land has gone to Tenants in new Tenancy rule that came into force in Kerala after it was formed

Probably the only temple in Kerala so ancient and so much in decline

In the eighties BBC selected this temple for a documentary to showcase artistry in Kerala temples

Probably because of lack of interest in any upkeep the Sivaswom trust was formed from well-wishers of the temple.

Kalletunkara Padmanabha swamys famous astrological enquiry

( Astamangala devaprasnam ) was done under auspices of Sivaswom trust and necessary rituals was done under thanthri to ward off the ill happenings .

Kannipayur Krishnan namboothripaad visited temple after this and gave needed advice

In 2011 famous architect and scientist who specialised in temple construction Dr. Benny Kuriakose was invited for an assessment by sivaswom.

He explains this temple was one of the 108 famous Shiva temples in Kerala

He details the fine wooden sculptures the dwarapalakas in stone in Balipura and the copper covered conical sanctum

He mentions of marthanda varma using best thachans to make this a house of art .

He advises early but scientific restoration preserving not only sanctity and antiquity but its priceless artistic treasures.

He tells of need to consider structural stability in any change mentioning that luckily temple though crumbling has not had any shabby cover ups so far though13 years back

Legal tussle followed between temple owners and trust

In 2017 December temple was handed to Travancore Dewasom by a high court order so that early renovation may be done

In 2020 the Government order for the same was passed

5 crores were sanctioned and the Tourism Department of Kerala entrusted with the renovation

But then Covid pandemic happened and it took away all finance and focus.

In 2022 the Tourism Department was entrusted with the work but a stay order was filed by the earlier owners

Luckily the court decided that renovation was an urgent need to save the temple from being destroyed and this could not be delayed so renovation could be started while the case continued in the courts.

According to Sri Rajesh the process has already started under the Tourism Department of Kerala.

At present I heard things are moving fast and we could hope for the much-needed work to be started soon

I Prayed to Lord Shiva for my family and friends and for this lovely but sad temple

Only Lord Shiva can open eyes and inspire the work to start and complete successfully.

A happy day to have reached this temple to become a part of its change though a small role it may be by writing this post to reach out to more people

Dr.N.Harimohan